The 4th of August, 1693, is the date ascribed to Dom Pérignon’s invention of champagne. While I work on The Favourite Murder, the fifth book in the Sir Anthony Standen Adventures, I have had to do a lot of research into wines of the early 17th century. Anthony has had to go undercover as a cellarman to spy on the princes of the blood.
Dom Pérignon, a Benedictine monk born in 1638, is an iconic figure often credited with significant contributions to the development of champagne as we know it today. While the popular myth suggests that he single-handedly invented sparkling champagne, the reality is more nuanced. His work at the Abbey of Hautvillers in the Champagne region of France laid the groundwork for refining and enhancing the production of this celebratory beverage.
Dom Pérignon joined the Abbey of Hautvillers in 1668 as the cellar master, a role that placed him in charge of managing the monastery’s wine production. At the time, the Champagne region produced still wines, and the phenomenon of sparkling wine was more of an accidental occurrence than a desired outcome. The cool climate of the region often caused incomplete fermentation during the autumn. When the wine was bottled, fermentation would sometimes restart in the spring, creating effervescence. This secondary fermentation was problematic as it could cause bottles to explode due to the pressure build-up, posing risks to both the product and the winemakers.
Contrary to the romanticised legend that Dom Pérignon exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” upon discovering sparkling champagne, his actual goal was to eliminate the bubbles. He sought to perfect still wine production, ensuring clarity, consistency, and superior taste. However, through his meticulous methods, he inadvertently influenced the evolution of what would become the world’s most celebrated sparkling wine.
One of Dom Pérignon’s notable contributions was his technique for blending grapes. He pioneered the practice of meticulous grape selection, combining different varieties to achieve a harmonious balance of flavours, aromas, and structure. This blending process remains a cornerstone of champagne production today. Pérignon worked primarily with Pinot Noir grapes, aiming to create wines of finesse and elegance.
Another significant advancement was his attention to viticultural practices. Dom Pérignon emphasised the importance of pruning vines to limit yields, thereby enhancing grape quality. He advocated for harvesting grapes early in the morning to preserve their freshness and prevent oxidation, which could compromise the wine’s flavour profile.
Dom Pérignon also made strides in improving wine clarity. During his tenure, wines often appeared cloudy due to residual yeast and sediment. He refined the clarification process, employing techniques that would later evolve into the modern méthode champenoise, or traditional method. This process includes riddling (remuage) and disgorgement (dégorgement) to remove sediment, resulting in the clear, sparkling wines we associate with champagne today.
An essential development in the production of sparkling wine was the improvement of bottling techniques. The pressure from secondary fermentation often caused traditional French bottles to burst. Dom Pérignon introduced the use of thicker glass and pioneered better corking methods, using Spanish cork secured with hemp string soaked in oil to maintain an airtight seal. This advancement significantly reduced the risk of breakage and helped contain the effervescence effectively.
While Dom Pérignon’s contributions were transformative, it is important to acknowledge that he did not work in isolation. The development of champagne was a collective effort involving many individuals over time. English scientists and merchants also played a crucial role in the evolution of sparkling wine. Around the same period, English glassmakers developed stronger bottles capable of withstanding higher pressures, and English consumers showed an early appreciation for sparkling wines, which influenced their production in France.
Dom Pérignon passed away in 1715, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of winemaking. His name lives on through the prestigious champagne brand “Dom Pérignon,” produced by Moët & Chandon. This luxury label embodies the principles he cherished: exceptional quality, meticulous craftsmanship, and the art of blending.
In summary, while Dom Pérignon did not invent champagne in the sparkling form we celebrate today, his innovations in viticulture, blending, and winemaking techniques were pivotal in shaping its evolution. His dedication to quality and excellence laid the foundation for what would become a symbol of luxury and celebration worldwide. The story of Dom Pérignon is a testament to the transformative power of passion, precision, and perseverance in the world of wine.